It’s been a while again since my last post, but combining work with studying and trying to complete a master thesis turns out to consume a bit more time and energy than expected:)
The two of us decided that Easter weekend was to be our chance to catch up with each other and try out two restaurants that have been on the list for quite a while. Hence, a long weekend to Lyon got booked and what a nice time it was! Apart from the sunshine and the ‘laid back’ vibe we gladly joined, our first stop was the world famous restaurant of Bocuse: Auberge du Pont de Collonges. What to say… longest running 3 Michelin star in the world (since 1965!) (PS: Auberge de l’Ill is also since a 3 star since 1967 and Troisgros since 1968: faut le faire!) I don’t think Bocuse himself doesn’t need an intro anymore: considered to be one of the greatest chefs in our lifetime, Meilleur Ouvrier de France, has the prestigious contest Bocuse d’Or named after him, … you name it.
Needless expectations were high. Looking upfront at the menu and docus it was clear that we were to expect some old school cuisine, which does not have to a bad thing! So about a 20min ride from the city center of Lyon, we arrived in a somewhat different world: peculiar color mix on the outside of the building, wall paintings, an old school piccolo to welcome us. We were seated in a room separate from the main restaurant, which we liked. The capacity overall must be quite large, but in our dining room we were 16 people on 5 tables, quiet. Service from start to finish was very good, not stiff as one could perhaps have expected. And then the food… We went for the Menu Bourgeois as the Menu Grande Tradition Classique seemed to be too much… I think we took the right decision:)
First off I went for the lobster à la francaise. I’ve never had that much lobster on my plate, with under the main body of the lobster a small brunoise salad. The lobster itself was very nice, but the dish was basically cold. Personally I’d have preferred it lukewarm. Although the dish in itself was very tasty, I’d be hardpressed to convince someone else that this is from a 3 star restaurant of one of the greatest chefs… But, next dish and what a stunner was that! Red mullet with potato scales and Noilly Prat sauce. So seemingly simple, but heavenly: the play of of the crusty thin potato slices with the sauce cutting through the richness of the fish. My table partner and I were looking forward to what could come next. As a refresher, we got served a granité/sorbet of Beaujolais and cassis. First time I had it with that taste. Then came the main dish: puff pastry pigeon. Classic dish and presentation, good cuisson with part of it inside of a puff pastry. Satisfying for sure, but can’t say mindblowing… Then there was a nice cheese selection, at least for my taste. It also seemed in a way an hommage to the restaurant not having changed its way for decades: the cheeses were in a big flat cane basket. This was then placed on a little table that was placed and moved around adjacent to each table. I can’t imagine this to be practical… a little (classy) trolley would perhaps not be a bad idea? Safety wise as well… can’t imagine that no one ever tripped with this basket of cheeses… Then came -after the red mullet- another highlight: desserts! There wasn’t a fixed dessert, but a whole selection to choose from (again little tables and large platters as with the cheese, but now 
several, not just one:)). Massive baba rhums, meringues, …. tartelettes, fruit, ice cream, chocolate tartes, you name it. Keep in mind that the lobster, the red mullet and the pigeon have been served in portions of main course size, so the sheer amount already was a sight to behold. Being a sweettooth, I went for a combo of a few. Absolutely delicious. Again traditional desserts, but to perfection.
Then… as we were there around my birthday, suddenly the piccolo entered the room with a little organ and started playing ‘Happy birthday’. I appreciated the gesture for sure, but I honestly think this scene was to stay in history, not sure if this is for today… but they also came with an extra dessert for the two of us. It was basically a big ganache of chocolate, we simply couldn’t finish it… trop est trop:)
The two courses that I really would recommend are:
- red mullet with potato scales
- desserts
A few hours past noon we stepped back out in the open air, stuffed like a turkey and discussing. Although we had a good meal, not sure if it’s 3 stars worth… The restaurant hasn’t changed their menu for over 50 years, which probably you won’t find anymore anywhere else. I can be convinced that you won’t find those dishes executed better anywhere else. Although def not an expert, I can very well imagine the ingredients were picked from the very best. I can also be easily convinced that when these dishes were conceived in the mastermind of Bocuse, they were revolutionary and the top of the top. However, I can also imagine that since then gastronomy has evolved and with that also standards do get pushed… If I then compare it with the visit the day after to Troisgros and the one of last year to L’Auberge de l’Ill, I do would prefer to go back there than here. But don’t get me wrong, both of us were and still are very happy we went and we enjoyed. It is an experience, period. Whether you can take someone there for her/his first 3 star and convince the person that this is at the top of the top… then I’m not sure the reputation delivers. As with everything, this my little humble view. If you don’t agree, then I am actually also happy that you got that joy out of your meal.
Bon Appetit!!
food for travelers 